Archive for the ‘Smart Shopper’ Category

Prepping Kids (Part 2)

Tuesday, January 6th, 2009

Essential Money Skill #1.

Essential Money Skill #2: How to manage a bank account.

Every teenager should have an account with his or her own money, and know how to use an ATM, complete a debit card transaction, write a cheque, and reconcile a bank statement.  Hey, there are some ‘dults who can’t reconcile their bank statements. If you’re one of them, you should learn too.

If you think taking your ten-year-old to the bank and opening up a bank account means you’ve done the job, you’re very wrong. Have you shown Little Miss how the debts and credits work on her statement? How to transfer money between accounts? Have you explained how interest works and why it’s important that money work as hard as people do? Have you talked about the fees that are often charged, and how quickly they can add up? How about the magic of compounding return? The Rule of 72? Hey, you got some ‘splaining to do.

TO DO:

Sit down and explain how banking works to your young’un. It doesn’t matter what he thinks he knows, you still need to have this conversation. Use the Socratic Method so you don’t totally bore him to death. The Socratic Method? What the Dickens… In a nutshell, that’s when you ask questions and let your child provide answers, correcting any misinformation as you go. It beats the Pedantic Method – I talk, you listen – by a mile.

Savvy shoppers may already be hip to using a debit card. Are they also hip to all the ways people have of stealing their identity? See, you aren’t done yet.

Telephone banking and internet banking may be new to you if you’re an old dog, but they are a natch for your kids who live on their computers and cell phones. If you’re not already banking online, get your kids to show you how. There’s nothing like teaching a lesson to learn a lesson.

Have your child reconcile your bank statement a half-dozen times till he’s good at it.  Can’t remember how? Here’s a mini-lesson:

Once a month you’ll receive a listing of all the transactions on your account for the previous month. The worst thing you can do is stick your bank statement in a drawer, ignoring it. Instead, stick it in your end-of-month-bills file. At the end of the month, gather the statement, your cheque-book register/accounts book and receipts for the previous month. Sit down, sharpen your pencil and haul out your calculator. You are now ready to begin reconciling your bank statement.

All money items charged to your account at the bank are called debits. These include cheques written, debit card purchases, ATM cash withdrawals, fees and charges. All money items put into your account at the bank are called credits. These include things like deposits you make and interest you earn. When you reconcile your account you are simply accounting for each debit and credit that occurred during the previous month and trying to find any items that you didn’t know about or that the credit union didn’t know about (as of your statement date) and list them. We are also going to find any mistakes made.

  1. Grab a blank piece of paper. At the top of the paper on the left side write the title MY RECORDS. At the top of the paper on the right side write the word BANK. Under the title MY RECORDS, write the amount your accounts book says you have in your account as of the date of the bank statement. Let’s say your statement is for the month ending June 30th, then you would write under MY RECORDS the balance you have in your accounts book for June 30th. If you have no items for June 30 in your accounts book, then use the preceding date. For example, you might have paid a bill on June 28th and then not used your account again until July 3rd. Use the balance you show for June 28th and write it on your paper under MY RECORDS. Lets say it is $1654.36 just as an example. 

  2.  Under the word BANK, write the final balance that your bank statement shows for that date. Again we will assume it is June 30th and as an example let’s use a balance of $1525.37. 

  3. Compare and check off all of the items in your accounts book against all of the items on your bank statement that match. 

  4. Under MY RECORDS list any items from your bank statement that you forgot to note in your own records. You may have forgotten to add in that cheque for medical reimbursement you deposited on the way to the movies.  

  5. Under BOOK, list anything in your accounts book that doesn’t appear on your statement. It is possible that the cheque you wrote on June 28th has not yet cleared your account. There might be several cheques that have not cleared. 

  6. Total the two columns. Remember: If it is a credit (i.e., a deposit), you add it to your balance. If it is a debit (i.e., a cheque you wrote), you subtract it from your balance.  

  7. If the two amounts are the same, you have balanced and your job is over. If there is a difference, you know something is wrong. So you’ll have to dig a little deeper. You may have miscalculated (if the difference is divisible by 9, you may have reversed your numbers). Or there may be a mistake on the statement or in your records. Verify everything until you balance. 

  8. Make any corrections/additions/deletions to your accounts book to bring it up to date.

 

Essential Money Skill #3: How to comparison shop.

You might be very used to comparing the prices of similar items or brands, or comparing the prices at different stores to get the best value, but your kids probably aren’t. While a price comparison is a no-brainer, they may stumble when it comes to the comparison on quality, learning the hard way that “you get what you pay for.”

This is a lesson you demonstrate. You show your children by example that taking the time to look at the cost and quality of an item means you really care about where your hard-earned money is going. If environmental issues are important to you, this is a good place to address those issues too.

If you buy stuff, stick it in the cupboard with the price-tag still on and never use it, you’re sending a strong message to your children. If you take something that’s broken and fix it, carefully explaining not only the financial savings but the inherent positives of making do, you’re sending a strong message.

One of the best places to start your lessons on comparison-shopping is the supermarket. Once you’ve mastered the concept of unit prices at the grocery store, you can move on to The Gap versus Old Navy, and Future Shop versus Best Buy.

TO DO:

Take your child grocery shopping and explain unit prices.  Look at the packaging and talk about how deceptive it can be. Talk about name-brands versus store-brands. Do a “taste test” to see how much of a difference there really is and bring home the idea that a bigger price doesn’t always mean better value. But sometimes it does.

Talk about how you comparison shop using fliers, coupons, or whatever else you do to stretch the grocery money.

Talk about how to plan meals. Make her responsible for planning, shopping for, and prepping at least one meal a week.

Have him do the grocery shopping for the household for several consecutive weeks.

Have her comparison shop the next major purchase your family has to make, be it a new car, a vacation or a new bed. This is a good place to review quality versus price, and reinforce the importance of “warranties” and “service.”

 

So many of the lessons we have to teach our kids about money are wrapped up in the lessons we should be teaching them about life. For a long time we haven’t talked about money because it’s been a big no-no. But you see where THAT has got us. And some of us are so doggone determined to ensure our kids have a great life, that we’ve been protecting them from the very experiences they need to become fabulous in adulthood. Home is a place to experiment with new skills in safety. If they blow something, you have the luxury of being able to talk about what  to do differently next time. 

Leaving home is stressful enough as it is. Having the skills to cope with some of the life’s basic issues is one way to ease that stress.

Next: Essential Money Skills #4 & #5.

 

Christmas Shopping

Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008

With jobs going buh-bye and the economy in the tank (yes, it’s official), this is the year to try perhaps NOT to blow your brains out on the holidays. While I’ve always been a Holiday Whore, this year’s gonna be a bit different. A divorce, a new home purchase and a big move (I’ve been packing for weeks) have conspired to put the kybosh on spending.

Taking a more sensible approach to the holidays doesn’t have to mean trolling your closets for things to re-gift. After all, if you don’t want it, why would your sister?  But since many of us are done with clutter, we’ve woken up to the reality that we don’t need more STUFF. So what are you going to do differently this year that doesn’t involve simply walking the mall and ticking names off your list?

Getting through the holidays on a budget probably means you have to think hard about what you’ll give. The idea is to come up with realistic ways of getting to January without a wicked credit hangover.

One of my shooter boys told us at lunch that his family is planning to pool their money and make a charitable gift. His words, “We’ve all got all the stuff we want, so this is better.” Go Adam.

You could make your gift. No, I don’t mean something hokey; how about something your recipient would love? Like a coupon book for free babysitting, pet-sitting, house-cleaning, whatever it is you can do well that someone else would love. This is the old “gift coupon book” idea and it’s one of my favs.

Some families have already initiated the “gifts just for the little kids” approach to the holidays. The spirit of Christmas is to be together and celebrate. No one says those celebrations have to centre on the exchanging gifts. For those for whom pressies are still a big part of the experience, you could choose names. Then each person only has one gift responsibility. Fams often also set a price limit for the gifts.

Course, if you set a price limit for gifts you have to stick to it. There’s always some fool who while espousing the benefits of a toned- down holiday, then tries to show off.  If you’re determined to stay on budget, be clear with your family: “People, money is tight this year, so we’re scaling back, focusing on the fun, okay?” If your family chooses not to cooperate, you should stick to your guns and not feel guilty. (Guilt is a wasted emotion.)

While I’ve never been a last-minute shopper, people assure me this is a great way to save. I met a guy the other day that told me that he and his buddies make an event of shopping on Christmas Eve. They meet for breakfast, hit the mall and shop ‘til they’re done. Since the projections for this Christmas season’s sales are waaaay down, there may be some wickedly deep discounts as Santa’s sleigh draws closer.

One way to fund Christmas is to sell stuff you no longer have a use for and use that money to go shopping.  Since the money won’t be coming out of cash flow or going on your credit card, you won’t have to give anything up in order to give pressies. Make sure you limit your Christmas budget to the funds you raise.

Okay, it’s your turn. How are you dealing the pressure to give?

Ethical Consumerism

Friday, October 31st, 2008

Do your ethics ever come into any of your shopping decisions? There are several new trends in ethical consumerism. The 100-mile diet is just one example. People choose to spend more on their groceries to buy products that come from within a 100-mile radius, reducing the transportation impact on the environment and supporting local providers.

A girlfriend of mine from long ago refused to buy coffee in a particular chain because she claimed they were putting all the neighbourhood coffee houses out of business. She didn’t like their coffee either.

Another girlfriend of mine refuses to shop in North America’s largest retail store because she believes they are bad for home-grown businesses and take the shopping out of the downtown cores of many smaller communities. Never mind that she has to pay more to shop locally. She’s committed to supporting her local venders.

Both these women participate in what is sometimes referred to as the Moral Boycott. If you watched the movie Blood Diamonds and then swore you’d never buy another diamond, you’re participating in a Moral Boycott. Ditto if you won’t buy Adidas products because they use kangaroo skin in their footwear, or if you refuse to drink Coca-cola because you object to their depletion of groundwater resources in India.

Moral boycotts work. It was ethical objection that brought apartheid to an end in South Africa. And Consumers Voting with Their Dollars is working every day to change the way in which companies operate. According to ethicalconsumer.org, this year Donna Karan and the DKNY brand came off the boycott list when US workers in supplier factories came to a settlement with the company over their claims of discrimination and failure to pay minimum wages or overtime.

Ethical consumerism is just as much about support the work of “good” companies as it is about beating the “bad” companies into submission. Whether you choose to buy products like energy saving lightbulbs, or favour one company’s products over another’s because of that company’s strong commitment to the environment, fair work standards, or ethical trade, you can vote with your dollars.

Ethicalconsumer.org also has a series of free buyer’s guides that can help you learn more about which companies are offering ethical options, and which aren’t. From audio/visual products to baby food, from health and beauty to household consumables, this U.K. site gives manufacturers an ethical score.

Sometimes telling the good guys from the bad is hard. Since ethical consumerism is a growing trend, companies are now “greenwashing”… posturing on their ethical standards without really doing things differently. But many companies are reacting to demand and pursuing more ethically and environmentally sound business practices.

Ethical consuming alone may not always achieve what you’re looking for. Becoming more conscious of what you’re buying, and how much, can be the key. And since during tough economic times we’re all looking for ways to cut back on what we’re spending, the objectives of being financially sound and ethically responsible can dovetail quite nicely into “buy less.”

Okay, your turn. Have you ever chosen one manufacturer over another for ethical reasons? Are there stores you won’t shop in, and why? Do you believe that your $1.92 can make a difference?

FYI, ethicalconsumer.ca and thedailygreen.com are two other sites you may want to check out.


Everyone’s Got One. What’s Yours?

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008

Everyone has one of these. It’s the thing we can’t walk away from, the thing that grabs our interest and says, “Take me home.” It might be stuff. It might be an activity. From picking up a morning coffee we simply can’t live without, to buying another pack of smokes, to getting a weekly manicure, we indulge ourselves over and over as a matter of course. The problem with not being aware that we have this little Gimmie Gremlin living in our heads is that we will respond to it without even being aware that we are doing so.

My Gimmie Gremlin used to be books. If I went any where near a bookstore I was guaranteed to walk out with a new acquisition. I didn’t even think about it. I was near a bookstore so buying a book just made sense. It was “convenient”. It was my “only vice.” It was AUTOMATIC! Ooops. Automatic spending? That doesn’t sound too healthy does it?

Not all Gimmie Gremlins are bad. After all, if you’re down to just one Gimmie Gremlin, giving in seems like your reward for being a good little boy or girl. I don’t drink alcohol. I don’t smoke. I don’t buy tons of clothes or shoes or jewelry. So buying books seemed like such an insignificant thing.

Sure, I could have taken my book money and stuck it in an investment plan, but I would not have derived the joy I did from buying the book. And since having fun is a big part of keeping the balance in life, book buying was a foregone conclusion.

The problem comes when we respond to the Gimmie Gremlin without thinking about it. We just ante up for that pizza home delivery, that software upgrade, that annual gym membership we never use, without thinking about whether or not what we are doing is actually working for us. And without thinking about the cost. If you buy a cup of coffee for $3 every day on the way to work, that’s costing you 3 x 5 x 52 = $780 a year. If you’re having $30 a month automatically deducted from your account for a gym membership you never use, that’s costing you 30 x 12 = $360 a year. And if you’re buying two $20-bottles of wine every week, that’s costing you 20 x 2 x 52 = $2080 a year.

If you have a bunch of Gimmie Gremlins all at work at the same time that can get very expensive. It’s often enough to throw your budget out of whack without you ever really coming to grips with why you just can seem to get to the end of the month before you get to the end of the money.

So here’s a challenge:

  • Figure out what your Gimmie Gremlin is.
  • How many of these little suckers do you automatically respond to?
  • What does it cost you each time you respond?
  • How much is each Gimmie Gremlin costing you each year?
  • How hard would it be to Just Say No to your Gimmie Gremlin(s)?
  • What else could you do with the money you’re currently spending on your Gimmie Gremlin(s)?

If you think and think and think and still can’t figure out what your Gimmie Gremlin is, then carry around a little notebook with you for about a month, making notes on everything you spend money on. At the end of the month (wait until the end) review your list and your Gimmie Gremlin should pop right out.

I took a good hard look at my book buying and cut way back. Now I can walk through a bookstore without feeling I have to make a stop at the cash register. Instead, I compile a list of titles I want to read and then “register” at the local bookstore where friends and family can go in a pick out something they know I’ll enjoy.

Yet another vice down the tube. Now what am I going to do to get to hell so I can be with my friends?

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Gift Card or Cash?

Thursday, September 18th, 2008

Gift cards have become incredibly popular. A whopping $1.2 billion in gift cards are sold every year. Since it is tacky to hand someone a twenty and say, “Buy yourself something nice,” a whole new culture of giving has sprung up around plastic that acts like a credit card (you can shop without touching any money) and looks like a credit card (kinda), but doesn’t wrack up debt.  And it’s been a boon people who just don’t know what to buy as a gift because everyone already seems to have EVERYTHING!

Personally I don’t like gift cards. First, they’re bad for the environment. Second, they distance us from our money (yet again) so we put less thought into our purchases. Third, they’re hard to use. Redemption always seems like such a chore for the check-out person. And fourth, they’re a rip off!

I don’t think I need elaborate on my first point. They’re plastic. They’re often one-use. And they’re multiplying by the millions. And where do they all go when they’re redeemed?

If you have a $20 bill that you could spend on anything, you’re more likely to do a better job of shopping than if you have a $20 gift card that you can only spend in a particular retail environment. Yah, those soaps are nice, I guess, and I have a gift card, so I might as well. Hmmm.

I recently redeemed a bunch of shopping points for gift cards, and that’s opened my eyes to the monsters these little pieces of plastic really are. If you try to use more than one card (and this goes for coupons too) at a time, it’s like you’re committing some major shopping faux pax. The line gets longer as your cashier rolls her eyes at you, and you wonder, “Why am I doing this?” That may be one of the reasons why up to $180 million is lost from people failing to use their gift cards.

In 2006, Best Buy revealed that a boon of $43 million existed on the books from gift cards that would likely not be redeemed. Wow! That’s $43 million dollars in MONEY for NOTHING but a piece of plastic.

Now we come to my 4th point: what a rip-off they are. So, I go into a drugstore to use their gift card and I’m told they can only give up to $2 in change from the card. So while the card is “as good as money”, you can’t convert it back to money, not even in the form of change. You can keep a balance on the card. And up until recently, you had to use the card before it expired or you’d lose that balance. Retailers were even subtracting money from the amount on the card if the card sat dormant for a length of time. Really!

Happily, some provinces are bringing in legislation that says NO MORE EXPIRY DATES or other fees that erode the value of the card. But no legislation will protect you from a company that issues a gift card and then goes bust, leaving you holding the plastic. When U.S. retailer Sharper Image went into bankruptcy, it refused to accept it’s own gift cards.

U.S. credit card companies are getting into the gift card business in a big way. These cards can be used just about anywhere, but usually come with significant fees and restriction. Card issuers also give themselves the right to change the rules however they want, whenever they want. The terms and conditions for the American Express Gift Card indicates they don’t even have to give you notice of changes.

As far as I’m concerned, gift cards should go the way of the dinosaurs. If someone wants to give me a gift, I want some thought to go into it. If there’s not a lot of money available, I don’t care. I truly do believe it’s the thought that counts. So the only gift cards or coupons I’m willing to accept are those drawn with crayons or markers and liberally sprinkled with glitter!

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Holiday Shopping Hints

Monday, September 15th, 2008

Now that the kids are back in school, it seems our attention has turned to dealing with the upcoming holiday season. A lot of people have been writing to me to ask about how to plan for the holiday season without blowing their budgets or their minds. Ha! You needed to have had a plan at the beginning of the year to really do the holidays justice without making a mess of your spending plan. If you’re just starting to think about how you make it through with your sanity, you’ll need to get creative.

I often recommend that people set aside 1/12th of their Holiday Spending Plan starting in January. Since planning is the key to everything, knowing how much you’ll need to spend on everything from gifts to wrapping, food to wine, hostess gifts to decorations, postage to travel, cards to photos, makes the whole thing work.

I always start my holiday shopping well in advance of the rush… I started this weekend, as a matter of fact. I went to a store that was having a moving sale and got almost everything I bought at 30% off. I brought it home and stuck it in the bottom of my closet. I know exactly who will get what, how much it’ll be for each gift, and how much under budget I am.

If you don’t want to blow your brains out on gift-giving, pretend you’re Santa: make a list and check it twice. Who doesn’t need to be on there? To whom can you give a token gift to commemorate the season?  How can you make your gift list fit within your budget? Secret Santa works at work, why not also amount a brood of siblings?

Once you have a list, jot down your gift ideas for each person on your list.

Routinely I ask my kids (I have four plus two spouses and a grand) for a list and then work to fill the list by comparison-shopping online before heading to the store.

Don’t self-gift while you’re shopping. The One-for-me-one-for-you approach to holiday shopping is just an excuse to be self-indulgent. According to an American Express survey, more than three-quarters of us buy something for ourselves while shopping for others.

If you’re a recent convert to the philosophy of only spending what you can afford to pay for, then you may have to take the drastic step of letting your peeps know that the largess of yesteryear simply isn’t possible anymore. You might find relatives and friends hugely relieved.

The very best gifts don’t have cost a penny, or very little. Offer up your time babysitting, cooking meals, house cleaning, massaging, sewing, knitting, transporting, or whatever else you’re good at. Clip a picture of the service you’ll provide and be clear on how often, as in “I’ll babysit one weekend a month from February to June.” Or better yet, make your own coupon book.

Unless you’re very good about paying your credit-card balances off in full every month, shop with cash this holiday season. Why? Because if you take a card, you’ll think you can spend more and then you’ll get stuck paying the minimum. At 18% interest, for example, $500 in holiday spending would take seven years to pay off and cost $365 in interest. Ouch! According to credit counselors, nearly 1/3 of us are still paying off the bills we racked up last year.

Before tossing anything into your shopping cart ask yourself why you are buying it. Are you just fulfilling your duty to give a gift? Are you showing off? Are you trying to keep up? Or are you giving something you can afford that your friend, sister, son or partner will truly enjoy receiving?

Your mom, dad or BFF aren’t going to be happier that you put yourself in financial stress rather than giving them something that might be slightly less and within your means, if they really love you. If they are judging you on your pressie, then they don’t really love you and you shouldn’t be buying them ANYTHING.

Make sure you get gift receipts for anything that may not fit and include them with the present. Routinely people accept gifts gracefully because they are good people, only to be stuck with something they’d never wear, never use, never regift. What a waste. Loads of people say, “if you need the gift receipt, I have one”, but the gift recipient may feel it is rude to ask for it. Avoid the potential yuck and just include it in the present.

I know a lot of people like to use gift cards to make the holiday season easier to manage. I’m not a fan of gift cards since you’re translating real money into retail dollars you can only spend in one place. (Blog to follow.) But if it works for you, just make sure you choose a reputable retailer.

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Quality Costs

Monday, July 21st, 2008

So PJ and I were walking past a shop window on the way to a shoot the other day when we looked in at the washers and driers. PJ has just bought a new house, which came with a washer and dryer she doesn’t particularly like. She was looking at an energy efficient front loader with a little lust. The set was on sale; a good price we thought. Especially when we turned around and compared it to the Big Name set that was priced higher.

Funny that. It seems it’s in our natures to assume that because it has a higher price, it’s a better product.

To prove the point, researchers from CalTech and Stanford told their guinea-pigs that they were drinking five different wines at five different prices. You know what? Those tricky psychologist lied; there were only three types of wine because two wines were offered twice: a $5 wine was described as costing $5 and $45, and a $90 bottle was described as costing $90 and $10. (There was also a $35 wine with the accurate price given.)

The guinea-pigs not only rated a wine as tasting better when they were told it was pricier, but their brain scans showed greater activity in their pleasure zones. OMG! Just being told the wine was more expensive gave the drinker greater pleasure. How awful is that?

Perfume is another good example of a product whose quality is often measured by its price. You can buy a six-ounce bottle of a lovely perfume at the drugstore for $30.00. If you want Chanel No. 5, one ounce will cost you $250.

A friend of mine told me a story that made me split with laughter. It seems her cousin was in the drugstore where he saw an expensive brand of cologne on special, two-for-one. So he bought them. He didn’t need them, but the idea that he was getting something expensive for FREE made him bite. His perception wasn’t that the colognes were half the price they had been before. No. He kept the original price as his benchmark, and registered the other bottle as FREE to justify dropping a lot of money he could ill afford to spend.

Hey, nobody likes a BOGO sale more than moi. I’m talking averaging down two pairs of shoes to $20 each here, not popping for a $300 handbag so I can get the other one for $150. I guess, it’s all a matter of perspective.

While it is sometimes true that “you get what you pay for”, if you decide to pay two or three times the price for a particular product, does that mean you expect it to be twice or three times as good? Think about it. Is that Super-de-dooper Latte really three times better than the coffee you could pick up at Timmy’s?

This is where we get into the whole idea of “value.” Dollar for dollar if the more expensive item isn’t proportionally better than the cheaper one, should you spend the extra money? Would the lower priced item suit your needs just fine?

So how’s a body supposed to counteract the More-expensive-is-better syndrome? You could do some blind testing of our own. If there are products you pay extra for because you think their higher quality makes it worthwhile, maybe it’s time to check your assumption.

You could also be better informed by reading consumer reports available in magazines or online. You could ask for friends’ opinions on the performance of less expensive alternatives they may be using.

Okay, it’s your turn: Have you ever bought a premium anything only to be disappointed? Do you have substitutes that you routinely choose over more expensive items because they are just as good? 

Impulse Spending

Wednesday, July 16th, 2008

Most of the families I work with have a problem with impulse spending. Putting them on the Magic Jars and giving them the budget binder to write down everything they spend goes a long way to making people change their spending patterns.  If you think you might be an impulse shopper, the first step to controlling it is monitoring your urges. It’ll only take a couple of weeks of thoughtful note-taking to give you a good insight on how and why you shop.

Get yourself a small notebook, keep it handy, and every time you get an urge to shop, practical or not, write it down. Note where you were, what you wanted to buy or did buy, and how you felt. Note every time the Impulse Monkey squawks at a prize, whether it grabs you online, at a store, or when you’re flipping through a flyer. No matter how often that Impulse Monkey chatters in your ear, make a note of it.

Whether you buy the item or not, keep track of the Monkey. Many times our urges are subconscious and we can’t control our spending if we aren’t aware of it.

Once you’ve determined that you have a problem, you’ll have to take some drastic steps to get the Impulse Monkey off your back.

Avoid the mall, the discount department store, the dollar store – anywhere you can spend money. I’ve actually just started working with one fam where the Lady of the House was dropping over $150 a month in a dollar store. OMG! Just going into a store practically guarantees you’ll buy something on impulse. Find something else to do to replace your shopping habit.

When you do go shopping, go with a list. In the grocery store, use a list. In the home-decorating store, use a list. In the mall, use a list. You’re not allowed to buy anything that isn’t on the list. No matter how good the deal is. NOTHING.  

Leave your credit cards at home and only shop with cash. If you don’t have the means to overspend, it’s amazing how much self-control you can show. If online shopping is a problem, you may have to throw your credit cards behind the fridge as an additional deterrent.

Do what my friend Natasha does and keep a long-term list too.  If you have an urge to buy something, first you have to put it on your Thirty-day List. You can buy it (if you have the money) after 30 days, assuming you still want it and something else hasn’t jumped up and captured your Impulse Monkey’s attention.

Finally, use the Grocery List technique for all your “needs.” You make a grocery list to stop you from buying everything the Impulse Money squeals at, right? Well, make a Clothing List, a Home Décor List, a Kids’ Toys List… you get my drift.

Let’s look at the clothing list in more detail to see how this would work. First, you list what you must have in your wardrobe: number of shoes, shirts, suits, jeans, jackets, scarves, belts, purses, coats. Then go through your wardrobe and take inventory of what you already have, marking it off your master Clothing List. What’s left is what you need to complete your wardrobe. That’s your Clothing List and you can’t buy anything that isn’t on that list.

Another keen trick is to make a deal with yourself that every time you buy something, you must get rid of something. This avoids falling into the trap of simplifying and then going shopping to replace everything you miss. It also makes you prioritize. If you must have that new doodad, what are you prepared to give up?

Buh-bye Impulse Monkey. Buh-bye.

What is It Really Going to Cost?

Monday, July 7th, 2008

As usual, I’m working with a family that’s spending a ton of money on STUFF. Most people do this unconsciously, never giving a thought to how much of their life’s energy is going into the purchase. This is a concept I learned from the book, Your Money or Your Life. (Another one of those books that changed my life. I am so grateful to Gutenberg.) I’ve put it to work personally, and I’ve put it to work with my fams, and it has a big impact

Let’s say you decide you just HAVE to have the newest cell phone that spits nickels and whistles Dixie while calculating how far you haven’t walked this week.  It runs for $379.99.

Now let’s say you have a great job. You earn $75,000 a year GROSS, which means you take home approximately $50,000 NET. That translates into a net hourly income (assuming 50 weeks and 40/hrs a week for work) of $25. Yup. You make a whopping 25 bucks an hour after taxes.

But that’s NOT your disposable income. You have to cover stuff like rent, car payments, debt repayment (for the last phone and all those dinners out), savings, and the like. Okay, let’s say your Essential Expenses – rent, food, and all the other things you MUST pay to keep body and soul together – add up to $3,300 a month. That’s breaks down to $19.80 per hour. (3300 x 12 / 50 / 40)

Are you still with me?

So your actual disposable income is your net monthly income of $25 less your Essential Expenses of $19.80, which leaves a whopping $5.20 an hour.

Now here comes the really PAINFUL part.

Take whatever you’re thinking of buying, and divide the cost by your Hourly Disposable Income (HDI) to see how much of your life’s energy you have to swap for that handy-dandy new device. In the case of that Phat Phone, you’d have to work for about 73 hours. Yup. Almost two weeks.

Hmmm.

If you really want the phone, and you have the money set aside to pay the bill right off the bat, you should buy it. But you should also do this exercise since its useful for putting things in perspective. 

If you really want the phone and you’re going to put it on credit, then you have to add in the interest you’ll pay to come up with the right number of hours of your life you’ll be swapping for it.

Want to work out your Hourly disposable income?

  1. Take your net pay and divide it by the number of hours you work a year. I find dividing by 40 (for hours worked in a week) and then by 50 (for weeks worked in a year) works great. This is your Net Hourly Income.
  2. Then calculate your monthly Essential Expenses. Multiply that number by 12 and divide it by 40 and then by 50.
  3. Subtract your Essential Expenses hourly cost from your Net Hourly Income. You’re left with your HDI.

Now, whenever your trying to decide if a purchase is really worth it, divide your purchase price by your HDI to see how many hours you’ll have to work to pay for the item.

Of course, you’d be a maniac to do this every time you’re considering buying something. Com’on. You don’t want to be OBSESSIVE or anything. But if you even give a second’s thought to the question, “Should I?” when it comes to buying something, do this calculation. Then stick the money you would have spent in your savings account. You were going to blow it on STUFF anyway, so you can consider it SPENT. 

Skimming & ID Theft

Friday, June 13th, 2008

If you think that debit and credit card fraud is something that happens to dumb people, let me assure you some of the smartest people I know have been hit. In the town where I buy my groceries, hundreds of customers of one of the supermarkets were hit when their debit card and pin numbers were stolen.

Closer to home, Chelsea, our production manager – and a very button-down chick and as smart as a whip – went shopping one day only to find her debit card had been skimmed and she was out thousands of dollars.

Here’s what Chelsea has to say about her experience:

My debit card was “skimmed” on the weekend - meaning someone illegally scanned my card and recorded my pin and went on a shopping spree.  It took them less than 24 hours to create a fake card and less than 36 hours to rack up 15 transactions, stealing about $3,000.  This is a real problem and not just something you read in the papers.

Here are some ways I’ve researched that you can prevent this from happening to you:

  • Hide your pin.  Seriously hide it.  You may feel like a dork but just do it. 
  • Watch your card.  If someone swipes it twice, ask why. Chances are they’re skimming it right in front of your eyes. 
  • Check your bank statements online at least once a day.  Look for cash withdraws and purchases that look unfamiliar (duh). 
  • Make sure you have minimum cash withdraw limits on your accounts.  Having a higher limit means that someone can’t go in there and clear out your account in one day.  I have a limit of $500 and sure enough, the bank told me, they attempted to take out more but were unsuccessful. 
  • If you have overdraft protection, someone can take money that you don’t even have. 
  • Take off access to accounts from your debit card that you don’t need.  Make all of your credit card payments online and then take the access to your credit card off of your debit card.  I had mine linked and they took a $500 cash advance from my credit card.  
  • Use cash wherever you can (cue Gail cheering with glee).  Even some ATMs have been rigged with skimming devices so watch out.  I almost feel like I have to go back to the old fashion days of getting cash from a teller and using cash to pay for everything.

I’m pretty sure I know what store this happened at.  It wasn’t a shifty convenience store; it was a regular retail outlet store – nothing shady so it can happen anywhere.

I’m not trying to make you lose sleep every time you swipe your card but there are things you can put in place to protect yourself just that little bit more.  I don’t want this happening to anyone else.  This situation really stinks but I hope that by reading this you can be proactive and look into how your account is set up and be more aware of this issue.

These are all great ideas from Chelsea. Pass them on. And here are a few more to keep in mind:

  • Watch out for “shoulder surfers .” Shield the keypad when using debit and ATMs.
  • Keep your receipts. Ask copies of incorrect charge slips.
  • Compare receipts with account statements. Watch for unauthorized transactions. Shred receipts after verifying the charge on your monthly statement.
  • Carry only the cards you need. Extra cards increase your risk and your hassle if your wallet is stolen.
  • Pay attention to your billing cycles. A missing bill could mean a thief has taken over your credit account.